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The Isles of Harris and Lewis, though commonly referred to as two separate islands, are actually just one land mass. There is a high mountain range in the middle that separates the two, and geologically they are quite different – Harris is hillier and has wider beaches than his brother Lewis. Follow our road trip itinerary around these amazing islands and see these breathtaking, world-renowned beaches firsthand, as well as ancient standing stones, impressive lighthouses, and an abundance of wildlife, be it seals, otters, or eagles!
- Key info
- Itinerary
- Photo gallery
- Further reading
- FAQ
Wondering how to plan your trip to the Isles of Harris and Lewis? Here are all our top tips and most essential information!
Key info
Transport
TransportGetting there: CalMac ferries operate a variety of routes. We took the ferry from Ullapool to Stornaway (Lewis), which takes about 2 hours. If travelling from the Isle of Skye, you can take the ferry from Uig (Skye) to Tarbert (Harris). Check out CalMac's interactive map to see all the possible route options!
Whilst there: We opted to take the car and our tent, although you see many people cycling and lots of campervans too! We think all these options are good ones, it’s about finding the right adventure for you. Unfortunately we didn’t take any public transport whilst on the islands, so can’t offer much advice on how frequent the buses are. Check here for more information about buses on the islands - interestingly it mentions that some routes are done on request only!
Did you know? Harris and Lewis are actually one island, although their diverse landscapes have led to them being commonly referred to as two! This is good news though, as it means there's no need to get a ferry to travel between them!
When to go
When to goThe Western Isles are probably at their best in the summer months, though this is no guarantee! As we found out, even mid-August can be quite cold, wet and windy. It’s best not to dwell on this too much though, and it does make you incredibly grateful on the days when you do get some sun. As long as you’ve got decent waterproofs, the weather won’t detract from the islands’ beauty.
Length of stay
Length of stayWe’ve put together a 5 day itinerary (not including travel to/from the islands), although it really depends on your mode of transport, and whether or not you are camping. If you don’t have to pitch and take down your tent every evening and morning then you’ll probably get through our itinerary a lot quicker. Distances aren’t huge, although do factor in more time for journeys if you’re on more remote single track roads. We’d say you need 4 days at least to do the islands justice, and if you want to factor in some proper hikes, adding few more days could be a good idea.
Accommodation
AccommodationThe tent! We took advantage of Scotland’s Outdoor Access Code which allows for responsible wild camping. Admittedly, we did also cave in and book one or two B&B stays, which were helpful for a shower every now and then! It’s also a good shout to have also if we had a ferry to catch early the next day. We give more details on where we camped in our day-by-day itinerary.
West Harris Trust £5 camp-spots: There are 5 camping spots near Luskentyre on Harris where there’s space for campervans/tents, and they ask for a small £5 contribution in a box on site. These spots can make it much easier to find a place for the night!
Mangersta bothy: Another great option for somewhere to spend the night is the Mangersta bothy , on Lewis, but be sure to email well in advance for the summer months as this is now a popular place due to its incredible location! You can usually only stay for one night, but all they ask for is a donation to their foundation.
Visit Scotland has compiled a list of B&Bs on the island and their contact details. B&Bs are often booked up during the summer months, but if you’re lucky (and desperate not to camp for a night!) you can sometimes find a spare room by ringing on the day.
Where to eat
Where to eatAs we were camping, we mostly cooked from ourselves or made picnics. If doing the same, be sure to stock up at the big supermarket in Stornoway, as there are not many options after that! In terms of restaurants, the choice isn't massive, however we did have a really tasty chowder at the North Harbour Bistro on Scalpay.
Language
LanguageSomething you'll notice whilst travelling around Harris and Lewis is that a lot of signs/place names are in Scottish Gaelic, usually with the English underneath. The Gaelic language is an incredibly important part of the Outer Hebridean identity, and these islands are one of the only places it is still spoken regularly in some households.
See if you can pick up a few words in Gaelic just from the place names, i.e. eilean - island and tràigh - beach.
Currency/Cash/ATM
Currency/Cash/ATMLike the rest of Scotland and the UK, the currency is GBP. We found that pretty much all places accept card, but it might be wise to have some cash on you as ATMs can be few and far between once you are out of Stornoway (Lewis) and Tarbert (Harris).
Let us know if you have any questions about how to plan your trip to Harris and Lewis!
Don't forget to check out our day by day itinerary and our photo gallery for Harris and Lewis!
Getting there: The adventure begins! To get to Stornoway, we had a long drive up from Edinburgh, before catching the 7.30pm ferry from Ullapool. On the ferry we were lucky enough to catch several glimpses of dolphins! This really got us excited for the trip, as we knew we were heading someplace magical! We arrived in Ullapool at 9:30pm and stayed at a pre-booked an Airbnb in the centre, so we were fresh to start our first day exploring...
North Lewis
North LewisWe explored Stornoway for a while in the morning and tried to spot some seals down at the harbour. We also did a big shop to stock up for our trip! Stornoway has some nice cafes and giftshops too, and is well worth a look around if you have more time. Then we went to Lews castle, and did the castle grounds walk, which leads you to Gallows hill for views of the castle and the harbour (1 ½ hr return walk). The best time to take photos up here is in the morning!
After this, we drove to the Butt of Lewis where we enjoyed a picnic. To the left of the lighthouse is a nice walk which offers great views of the landscape around. We made stops at Shawbost and Dalmore beach, before driving to Great Bernera (a wee island joined to Lewis by a bridge). On the way you’ll pass the Callanish Standing Stones so be sure to stop off at those either on your way there or back! We arrived at Bosta Beach, our favourite beach so far, where we wild camped for the night. It was amazing to have this beautiful beach to ourselves in the evening and then the next morning. The waters here are a stunning blue-green, which, even on an overcast morning, looked spectacular!
Reef Beach and Mangersta
Reef Beach and MangerstaWe enjoyed the bliss of waking up next to the beach, and made the most of the peace and quiet before more visitors arrived. It was quite a cloudy morning but this didn’t stop us trying to find a location where we could get good views of Little Bernera. Soon after heading back to Lewis, we saw some seals (in the waters between Great Bernera and Lewis). It was great fun watching them play for a while.
The next stop is Traigh na Beirghe (Reef Beach), at the eastern end are some cliffs which make it a great photography spot, at a small shell beach. Other good beaches in the area are Ardroil Beach and Cliff Beach, however if the weather is not good then it can really make a big difference, as you might not be able to see the beach when you arrive, let alone the views ! We were particularly unlucky with the weather on this section of our trip!
It could then be possible to head to Mangersta beach and sea stacks, and, if you’ve been successful at booking, stay the night at the unique Mangersta bothy!
Huisinis (Hushinish)
Huisinis (Hushinish)Start the drive down to Huisinis. On the way there, you might want to stop at Aline Community Woodland or Glen Vigidale, parts of the Bird of Prey trail where you could spot white-tailed and golden eagles! Take the single track road leading to Amhuinnsuidhe/Huisinis, which itself is a breathtaking drive. Park up at Maevaig to walk to the eagle observatory (about 30 mins away). We saw more eagles on the walk there than we did sitting in the observatory itself, it’s better to keep your eyes up looking at the sky! It was truly impressive to see golden eagles for the first time though - bring your binoculars!
Keep following the road until it ends at Huisinis beach. There is parking, showers, toilets, a picnic area and usually a food truck here. Enjoy the beautiful beach before a must-do walk along the cliffs to Traigh Mheilein beach. It takes around 2 hours to reach the beach, and you get to enjoy stunning views of the island of Scarp, and a beach that is practically empty, apart from all the sheep! You can continue the walk, heading to Loch Crabhadail (Cravadale) and Crabhadail beach and making it a loop. It had rained a lot in the previous days so we found the walk to be quite muddy, and steep in parts. It was really beautiful and quiet around sunset, and we had the beach to ourselves! Be careful to leave enough time to get back before it is dark though. Look here for a detailed description of the walk, including where to start and a map of the full loop.
We camped at Huisinis, on one of the sites slightly further away from the main one with the showers/toilets, as this was quite busy. The facilities here are definitely the best we’ve seen, and it was free to camp there! A donation to North Harris Trust is a nice way to show your appreciation for such a gem of a spot though!
Luskentyre and Scalpay
Luskentyre and ScalpayEnjoy a morning walk on Huisinis beach, and a hot shower at the campsite. Drive back the way you came and head to Tarbert, the capital of Harris. Perhaps stop here for a quick wander (it’s only small!), but nice for a bite to eat and some shopping! Then drive down to Luskentyre. Enjoy your time on one of Harris’ largest and most breathtaking beaches. There are miles of white sand and if you’re lucky with clear weather, you’ll be able to see the Island of Taransay. Spend a few hours walking/relaxing here!
We weren't too lucky with the weather on our visit to Luskentyre, but found that the estuary/ford that you can see from the road as you drive to the beach itself was a fascinating place to watch change as the tide came and went, and so did the many birds! This process also creates amazing patterns which you can see clearly on our photo from above. Amazingly, some of the West Harris Trust camping locations are right next to this road, so you can wake up to amazing views in the morning!
We knew we would camp around here for the night, however, we had managed to book a table at the North Harbour bistro on the island of Scalpay, so drove over there (about 30 mins) to enjoy a delicious meal. Scalpay is yet another island connected to Harris/Lewis by a bridge. If you’ve got the time, you might want to enjoy a scenic walk or drive around Scalpay, including this walk out to the Eilean Glas Lighthouse.
South Harris
South HarrisAfter waking up to stunning views from our West Harris Trust camping spot, we decided to see what the south of the island has to offer. The coastal road is so beautiful though that it is impossible not to stop every 5 minutes to take pictures. We made it as far as Seilebost (i.e. not far at all!) before pulling over to enjoy the beauty of this coastal view from above. Along the road you will also pass Horgabost campsite and the McLeod stone.
Keep following the road to the very bottom of the island at Rodel, where you will find St. Clement’s church. It is well worth a look inside, as there is some good information about the history of the church, and whilst we were there there was also a beautiful art exhibition.
At nearby Finsbay, we were lucky enough to spot some seals (and the binoculars by the coast suggest they are here a lot!) and spent a long time watching them swim and play.
From here, there’s a few options!
Carry on as we did, by taking the ferry at nearby Leverburgh to the Uists, and continue your island exploring! Or drive back north to Tarbert / Stornoway and take your ferry back to the mainland, or keep exploring and let us know the new places you discover in the comments below!
Let us know what you think of our 5 day itinerary in the comments!
Don't forget to check out all the key information you need to plan this trip and our photo gallery for Harris and Lewis!
Further reading
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. These are articles/websites we've come across during our long planning and that we thought could be of interest to you. All links were valid at the time of publishing.
- A great website for walks all over Scotland, WalkHighlands has a dedicated section for Lewis and Harris.
- Visit Outer Hebrides is a brilliant source of information of activities to do on the islands, as well as places to eat and stay. We particularly enjoyed following their Bird of Prey trail.
- The West Harris Trust has lots of information about camping, and is planning some great new projects for 2020. They already offer 5 'free' camping spots near Seilebost and Luskentyre (they ask for a donation to their trust).
- Mainly due to truly terrible weather, there were a few places on Lewis that we had highlighted, but didn't end up visiting. But we don't want you to miss out on them! So be sure to add these to your Isle of Lewis itinerary if you have a bit more time and energy:
- Traigh Mhòr (beach)
- Port Naguran Lighthouse
- Shawbost Norse Mill and Kiln
- Gearrannan Blackhouse Village
- Dun Carloway Broch (castle)
Frequently Asked Questions
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